The 1991 Bmw 325i Drift Build & Test Engine

The 1991 Bmw 325i Drift Build

What's up! We were supposed to be in falkping for this episode, but we didn't get the parts we needed we needed pistons and now it's only 8 days until Sweden’s biggest car show unfortunately we won't be competing that weekend! We are now putting more hours in to make The 1991 Bmw 325i as good as it can be.

We're paying even more attention to the small details when the pistons arrive, the car will go straight to falkping for wiring work but for now we are at raid power once again I've taken the car to use to get the chassis powder coated they painted all the fiberglass parts, clear coated the carbon fiber. The only thing missing was the doors.

It's so nice to have lightweight doors, Tokan makes this stuff happen! We've got them now, so they will be shipped to Viktor Mrtensson for paint so we are just working our asses off around the clock, as usual! As I said, 8 days left until the car needs to be loaded in the trailer what we've been up to the last 2- 3 days is mostly getting the front end mounted and ready to go dampers are mounted, brakes are modified to make the wheels fit correctly we've fitted the mock-up engine that we've mounted the exhaust manifold on as well as downpipe and plumbing stuff, we're waiting for the intake it's getting ported at a shop right now everything is flowing nicely Tokan is putting in way too many hours in to this! But we're trying to keep up with him! We've FINALLY gotten our small front wheels.

Thanks to Anders at Kloma for finding them and thanks who financed them thank you so much guys, I love the support you give me! Let's check out the back ! As you can see it's starting to come together we've extended the car, to make it fit with t The 1991 Bmw 325i parts on it to get the cockpit tight we've opted for double rear windshields there's one in the stock mounts and one in the modified M3 frame to route the air in to the radiator and also to avoid cutting in the trunk lid, we are hoping that it's enough! We'll see what happens.

The rear suspension is mounted and done we're just waiting for some parts to mount the driveshaft’s the reinforcement plate that M brag weld and construction made fitted right away we've also got a fire suppressing system from them the foggy kit it's really nice to know that you are safe inside the car if an accident happens you never know, everything can happen in racing! But, yeah it's coming together piece by piece! We're are fighting like crazy to get the car ready for Elmia 2016 I think it's a bit low.

The 1991 Bmw 325I Engine

The E 36 model was introduced in 1990 as a successor to the E 30. The main focus of its development was the complete renovation. Its designer, Voyk Voyerstarted from a blank page and did not leave any trace of previous 3 series versions. Baring some resemblance to the recently introduced 8 series.

All the negative aspects of previous models were taken care of. And the objective of renovation and improvement was far exceeded. A modern look that still remains until today more spacious on the inside the introduction of more powerful and more efficient engines substantial improvement in its aerodynamics resulting in an improvement in the gas mileage the rear z-link suspension an evolution of the one presented as a novelty in the The 1991 Bmw 325i roadster.

On top of all this it accomplished the challenge that at the end of its lifespan 80% of its components were recyclable. A step in favor of protecting the environment. Due to the success of the four-door E 30 design the E 36 was firstly introduced in its sedan version. Later on its two-door version the coupe was introduced. Regarding its engine the base model came with a 1665cc diesel engine with 90 hp.

The top range model was the evolution of the M50 engine, the M52with 2800cc, 193hp and a maximum torque of 280 nm. Between these two models we can find a variety of different diesel and petrol engines with four and six cylinders. The M 3 initially came with a 286 hp engine. And in 1995 the new version with 321 hp was introduced.

It went out of production gradually. In 1998 the 4th generation of the 3 series was introduced to the market. In 1999 all the E 36 models went out of production except for the compact which was produced until the year 2000. With the E 36 version, BMW marked a turning point leaving behind a legacy of progress and innovation for all future developments. Source: http://wallpaperciamik.net

Jeep Wrangler KC Lights 1987-2017 Review

Jeep Wrangler

This is my review and installation of the KC  hi li tES  slim lite lights, fitting all  1987 and up  wranglers.  These are available in a few different beam patterns.  You can get these in a long-range, a driving pattern, or a fog pattern light, and you can also get them in the black housings that you see here or a chrome housing.  So you have a couple of different decisions to make, but you can get the exact light that you need for your  jeep.  Today, we're going to talk through the installation of these lights, which is a very simple one out of three-wrench install, thanks to the wiring harness that's included with your lights.  This is going to be something anyone can do in their driveway in about two hours, but we'll talk more about the install in just a second.  We're also going to talk through the construction, a few of the features of these lights, the light output, and the beam pattern that you can expect.

There are a couple different reasons to want to add auxiliary lighting onto your  jeep.  Now, one of those is you plan on actually using that light.  You are off-roading at night, or you're driving down dark backroads without oncoming traffic and you want some additional light so that you can more easily spot animals.  The other option is you just think that the lights on the  jeep look good.  You like the rugged look that they provide, and either school that you fall into is absolutely fine and there are going to be a lot of different options for you. I would say that these lights from KC are more for the people who are going to be using them, because they are a very well-built light, a very bright light, which also makes them a little bit more expensive than some of the other options on the market.

If you are just looking for a light to give you that off-road look, you could probably get away with something cheaper that isn't going to function as well as these are.  Now, these are the KC  slim lite, which means that they are very narrow when you look at them from the profile view.  There's also the KC  daylighter which is you're more traditional light that has a little bit more of a back on it.  There's also the KC  apollo lights, which are very similar to these.  But instead of being a metal housing, they're a plastic housing and they don't put out quite as much wattage as these ones do.  So again, you have a lot of different options from KC.

They've been around for a long time.  They make really high-quality products. I really like these  slim lites in long range for up on you're A-pillars. A long-range light is really nice for the A-pillar manual location, because you don't get a lot of light bouncing off the hood and back into your eyes as the driver, which can ruin your night vision.  These are going to be a pencil beam that can be positioned really far downrange, even further than your headlights can reach.  Again, that's what I run on my  jeep. I really like them in that location.  If you are going to get the driving or the fog beam, you're going to want to mount them a little bit lower down, probably on a bumper or a bumper hoop, and have them aimed appropriately so that you're not blinding oncoming traffic.

These are not a light that can be run while you're driving with oncoming traffic.  They do scatter a lot of light.  They're very, very bright, and you're probably going to mount them up a little bit higher.  But of course, the driving and the fog beam, if you aim them properly and have them mounted in a nice lowdown location on the  jeep, you can run those while driving down the road.  So these are a six-inch, round light.  As I said before, the housings are a little bit slimmer, which make them ideal for that A-pillar mounting location, or anywhere else on your bumper where you just prefer to have a little bit of a slimmer design.

I like the fact that this has a metal housing that is either black powder-coated, or of course you can get it chromed, because I feel like the metal is a little bit more robust.  Of course, the plastic has its own benefits in the way that if you scratched it, it would rust.  However, the  apollo  series, which is the plastic version of these, is also a lower wattage light.  So if you want maximum light output and you want a nice, durable, metal housing, I think this is definitely the way to go.  Again, a couple different theme patterns to choose from.  These do include the stone guards. I just have one installed just to show you what the light looks like without them.

These are just there, because this is a glass lens, to help deflect any stones and protect the light from being broken.  As with most other KC products, this also comes with a housing.  Each of these lights does have a weatherproof connector on the end of it.  Your wiring harness will plug directly into both of these lights.  You're going to pick up power at your battery, and you're also going to have a switch to pull through the firewall to operate these lights.  You also have an additional leg, so if you wanted to, you have your  on/ off switch.  But you can also wire these into your high beams or a secondary switch if you choose to.  You have some options.  But either way, the housing that comes with these lights makes it very easy to get these wired up, even if you don't have a lot of experience with automotive wiring.  So as for the install, again, one out of three wrenches, about two hours, and all you're going to need is your traditional hand tools.

The first step is figuring out where you're going to mount your lights.  Whether it's a light mounting tab on a front bumper, whether you purchase a bolt-on bracket to put these on you're A-pillar, or you decide to drill a hole in your bumper or really anywhere else in your  jeep.  These do mount with a traditional single-post mounting bracket, so you can really put these anywhere.  Once you have them installed, you'll just stretch your wiring harness out, plug it into the lights, pick up power at the battery, and pull the switch wire through the firewall and mount that switch on your dashboard.  Again, a very, very simple process.

 All you need to do is follow the instructions.  The harness is going to have your fuse, your relay, your switch, everything you need, making this very, very easy to install.  These lights come in at right around $ 160, and I think that is a very fair price for the light output, for the build quality, for the fact that this comes with a wiring harness that makes getting them installed very, very simple.

I think $160 is a very fair price for these lights.  So if you're looking to add some auxiliary lighting onto your  jeep, you're not interested in the more modern LED cubes, you want something that's a little bit more old-school, a round halogen, off-roading light, I think these are going to be a really nice option.  Because they're going to hold up well, they're going to throw a ton of light, and they're fairly priced.

Driving The 1977 Chevy C10 3 Speed Transmission

Ok, well I thought I would make an update To an article that I posted several years ago. It's the how to drive the 3 on the tree transmission And so we're back here Still a 1977 Chevy C10 And I'm still getting comments here several years later about people. It's bugging them that the steering wheel was upside down in that previous post.

Well Ive got the steering wheel corrected. The dash was wrong, I had a the truck had an 81-87 dash in it. Not a 73-80 dash in it, The gauge cluster was all screwed up. So I just thought I would make another post.

So let's just get started First gear Pull it all the way back towards you and down And there you go there's first gear Moving into second Up, forward, theres second gear We let it go up It's going to automatically kind of fall forward a little bit It's spring loaded Up into second Then we just go straight down from second into 3rd.

There you go there's third gear That's all it's only a three speed That's all the gears there are Back up to neutral Just kind of jiggle it And I'll show you real quick Reverse similar to 1st Pull it back towards you and then straight up And that's reverse So that's really all there is to it Its nothing fancy Once you get past this, this is just an H pattern Instead of on the floor It's on the column It's still a standard sort of H pattern shift, shift pattern And then the clutch and gas.

That's no different than any other manual transmission You feather the clutch and the gas to get it right And that's all it takes And woo! I almost nailed a hawk! So it's kind of fun! I mean, it's only three speed I've got a 3.73 rear end So 70 mph on the freeway I'm turning Im think it's nearly 3 grand on the engine speed So four speed with overdrive would be nice But I'm not too worried about that right now.

Go first Second And there's third that's all the gears you got You're certainly not going to win any drag races With a 3 on the tree its, it's pretty slow You know 3 on the floor or 4 on the floor Maybe Depends on how good you are But, man, 3 on the tree.

Don't expect to win any races If you do then you're really good or you're really lucky Because it's a slow way to shift So that's really all there is to it I just thought I'd make an update video Seeing as I got everything fixed Everything that was making everybody else nuts in the last video So steering wheel is fixed, dash is fixed Gauges are fixed Pretty well close to done. Well, see you next time guys!

GMC Sierra 2015 Light-Duty V-8 Acceleration

GMC Sierra

 Hello guys. You're with me in the 2015 Light-Duty V-8 Acceleration test. Today we will test some muscle truck in the track. You maybe want to see our video in our youtube channel where you can find in the link below. But first You need to read the sort resume of the test result.

As part of our 2015 light-duty challenge we've come here just outside Phoenix to wild horse pass raceway where we've taken five brand-new half-ton v8 pickup trucks to see which one is fastest.

Down the quarter mile here are the top three finishers in our acceleration testing the GMC sierra 1500 came in first place in unloaded testing with a 5.9 one second run down the quarter mile. That impressed our test driver to no end in fact that 6.2 liter v8 and eight-speed transmission was very impressive but only got second place in the quarter mile. With a 14 point three eight second run at 96.8 miles per hour the chevy silverado which ran a 5.92 just behind the winning.

GMC sierra also was very impressive in the quarter mile in fact hooking up just slightly better than the GMC sierra winning a first-place time a 14-point 34 seconds at 97.6 miles per hour in third place the ram 1500 laramie longhorn with a 5.7 liter Hemi ran a 6.68 still very impressive and strong enough to give it a 15-point one to finish in the quarter mile at 92 miles so those test results are just a part of our 2015 light-duty challenge for more tests information and who takes home the trophy to this competition go to pick up trucks category in this blog.